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KOOK - What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller Thruster Fins Interviews mit Locals

SKU: 49309387054

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USD26.00 USD61.00

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Description

Interviews mit Locals

die diese Personen abseits von Wasser und Wellen miteinander verbindet

in dem am Strand geblättert und das mit Notizen vollgeschrieben wird

The Fourth Wall

KOOK - What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller Thruster Fins Interviews mit LocalsWith grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discoveryof surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the oceans beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big hollow wavethat is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredderin a single year,

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