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Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life - William Finnegan Pages:512 pages noir crime

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noir crime

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Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life - William Finnegan Pages:512 pages noir crimeWinner of the Pulitzer Prize and William Hill Sports Book of the Year: Barbarian Days is a deeply rendered self portrait of a lifelong surfer looking for transcendence 'that recalls early James Salter' (Geoff Dyer, Observer)Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in

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